Training for the New Alpinism

Posted on 12 October 2017 by Steve House

In Training for the New Alpinism, Steve House, world class climber and Patagonia ambassador, and Scott Johnston, coach of U.S National Champions and World Cup Nordic Skiers, translate training theory into practice to allow you to coach yourself to any mountaineering goal Applying training practices from other endurance sports, House and Johnston demonstrate that following a carefully designed regimen is as effective for alpinism as it is for any other endurance sport and leads to better performance They deliver detailed instruction on how to plan and execute training tailored to your individual circumstances Whether you work as a banker or a mountain guide, live in the city or the country, are an ice climber, a mountaineer heading to Denali, or a veteran of 8,000 meter peaks, your understanding of how to achieve your goals grows exponentially as you work with this book Chapters cover endurance and strength training theory and methodology, application and planning, nutrition, altitude, mental fitness, and assessing your goals and your strengths Chapters are augmented with inspiring essays by world renowned climbers, including Ueli Steck, Mark Twight, Peter Habeler, Voytek Kurtyka, and Will Gadd Filled with photos, graphs, and illustrations. Download Training for the New Alpinism – kino-fada.fr This book is aimed toward alpinists, but the principles outlined in it are pretty much applicable to most athletes The book gives you advice how to train, recover, and eat while training and recovering, and m...Best book on sports training that I ve ever read ahem the only book on sports training that I ve managed to finish I ve tried to read other sports training books and I ve never completed one That s because the books, while great books, were aimed at coaches and trainers, never at me, the person being trained I ve read the book and have reread some chaptersthan once The information has been enlightening If you want an easily digestible explanation of performance centered physical t Best book on sports training that I ve ever read ahem the only book on sports training that I ve managed to finish I ve tried to read other sports training books and I ve never completed one That s because the books, while great books, were aimed at coaches and trainers, never at me, the person being trained I ve read the book and have reread some chaptersthan once T...Reading Jon Krakauer s superb memoir Into Thin Air A Personal Account of the Mount Everest Disaster has left me with a lot of questions, so I started looking for a book that would help me get to the bottom of high altitude climbing I hit the jackpot with Training for the New Alpinism Steve House and Scott Johnston start with the fundamentals of training, eating, and exercising and then show how to translate that knowledge into a proper methodology for getting your body and mind ready to hit Reading Jon Krakauer s superb memoir Into Thin Air A Personal Account of the Mount Everest Disaster has left me with a lot of questions, so I started looking for a book that would help me get to the bottom of high altitude climbing I hit the jackpot with Training ...As a strength athlete it was very interesting to read how the training is done for an endurance based sport.The section on adaptions for altitude was particularly interesting as it s something I ve never read about before.The biggest takeaway I got from the book is the commonsense thought that when going into the mountains speed is safety This doesn t mean rushing Rather it means having the fitness to move continually at an optional speed This is shown in most of the personal accounts in the As a strength athlete it was very interesting to read how the training is done for an endurance based sport.The section on ada...There are three principle adaptations that result in increased ATP production in the muscles increased mitochondrial mass, increased aerobic enzymes, and increased capillary bed density By the time you get over 20,000 feet about 6,100...I highly recommend this book to anyone interested in understanding the fundamentals of endurance training I read it as a distance runner and not a climber I found that this book,than any other, gave me the tools I needed to crea...Excellent book with great information, and a fresh approach to preparing to fail at an extreme sport.Positive attributes Fairly standard sport science and presented as such ie no gimmicks Very well presented written clearly, good diagrams, etc Selection of anecdotes maintains interest and reinforces main informationNegatives Aimed at elite or high performance only Beginners or improving punters who want to use this as a training manual might struggle to apply the information.All in all, I give it 10 10 If you re already well up on your sport science you might not find anything Positive attributes Fairly standard sport science and presented as such ie no gimmicks Very well presented written clearly, good diagrams, etc Selection of anecdotes maintains interest and reinforces main informationNegatives Aimed at elite or high performance only Beginners or improving punters who want to use this as a training manual might struggle to apply the information.All in all, I give it 10 10 If you re already well up on your sport science you might not find anything new, but it does apply sport science to a particular aim that probably isn t directly covered as well anywhere else If you re a beginner, or a punter, then you re probably better off using something like Conditioning for Outdoor Performance.That it is grounded in standard exercise science is a major boon The majority of get fit books are usually a bit gimmicky, or rely onsimplified training ideas It s like the differe...Part 1 I had a look at this book in the library Looks like an excellent companion to RCTM if interested inalpine endeavors One potential weakness is that it seems to assume you have tons of free time to devote to cardio and all sorts of physical testing equipment That being said, I intend to buy a copy and read it in depth when and if I begin doingalpine type climbingPart 2 I want to write a follow up to my original comment now having read the book thoroughly As I suspected, Part 1 I had a look at this book in the library Looks like an excellent companion to RCTM if interested inalpine endeavors One potential weakness is that it seems to assume you have tons of free time to devote to cardio and all sorts of physical testing equipment That being said, I intend to buy a copy and read it in depth when and if I begin doingalpine type climbingPart 2 I want to write a follow up to my original comment now having read the book thoroughly As I suspected, this is a perfect analogue to RCTM if interested in alpine style climbing My initial thought that you needed lots of physical testing equipment was completely misguided In fact, minimal equipment is needed I initially thought that training for alpine style climbing would entail lots of long runs Although there is a focus on endurance, House shows that you should train using techniques specific to your sport I do concur with my previous comment that lots of free time is needed for some of thea...The training bible for mountaineering or any endurance sport for that matter.

English
12 October 2017

Steve House